Kit Tips
These tips are given out in response to distributors’ questions we have answered over the years.
Please explain Booster Cables. What is the best gauge?
10 gauge is very thin and should only be used to boost small four-cylinder motors in warm climate conditions. 10 gauge cables heat up to dangerous levels when subjected to a good steady current or when prolonged cranking is needed to start a vehicle. This can cause severe damage to a vehicle or injury to a person.
Please note: Batteries usually give out under extreme conditions when it is very cold and nasty outside, so our recommendation is to use at least 8 gauge cables and avoid prolonged cranking when starting even then.
Recommended boosting procedure: (Improper boosting usually harms modern electronics components in vehicles).
(1) Remove the cell caps from the dead battery, when possible. Some batteries are sealed and the caps cannot be removed; if so, move on to the next step. If the caps can be removed, check the electrolyte level and add distilled water, if needed. Replace the caps if they are the vented type, otherwise cover the cell holes with a damp cloth. When temperatures are below freezing, check for ice in the dead battery. Never try to boost a frozen battery; replace it or thaw it completely.
(2) Make sure that both batteries are of the same voltage. Do not attempt to boost a 6-volt battery with a 12-volt battery or a 12-volt battery with a 6-volt battery. One of the two vehicles may be damaged in the process.
(3) Turn off the ignition and all accessories in both vehicles.
(4) Put both vehicles in park or neutral with the parking brakes on. The vehicles must not touch each other, but should be close enough that the booster cables will reach without stretching or crossing over the engine compartments.
(5) Decide which cable of the booster cables will be positive and which will be negative; usually red or yellow is assigned to be positive and black is assigned to be negative.
(6) Attach one end of the positive booster cable to the positive terminal of the booster battery. Attach the other end of the positive booster cable to the positive terminal of the dead battery. Good metal to metal contacts are absolutely necessary. Sometimes, wiggling the cable clamp slightly will help to insure a good contact. However, don't overdo it.
Warning: Do not allow the ends of both cables to touch while attached to the batteries; sparks and short circuits will result!
(7) Then attach one end of the other cable, the negative cable, to the negative terminal of the booster battery. Before making this connection, be certain that the opposite end of the negative cable is not contacting either the positive cable or any part of either vehicle. Again, be sure of good metal to metal contact.
(8) Connect the remaining end of the negative cable to the engine block or thick metal frame of the vehicle with the dead battery. Do not connect it to sheet metal or any rotating part; damage will result. The connection should be made at a level lower than the battery and as far away from it as possible, but still under the hood. This will reduce the possibility of igniting any hydrogen gas that may be present above the dead battery.
An illustration showing all connections is shown in the above figure.
(9) Start the engine of the vehicle that has the booster battery. Let it run for a few minutes with the cables attached. Then try to start the engine of the vehicle with the dead battery. Do not use the starter motor more than 30 seconds at a time.
Warning: Cranking the engine for more than 30 seconds at a time may overheat the starter motor and damage it.
(10) After the boosted engine has been started, disconnect the booster cable connections in the reverse order of attaching them.
a. the negative cable from the engine block or frame,
b. the negative cable from the booster battery and the positive cable from the dead battery,
c. and finally, the positive cable from the booster battery.
(11) If vent caps were removed from the boosted battery, replace them.
(12) Use the accessories on the boosted vehicle sparingly until the battery is fully charged. If the engine should stop before the battery is charged up, it may need another boost.
Why don't you have a gas siphon in your roadside emergency kits?
They don't work, because car manufacturers have a device much like a toilet trap inside the fuel filler pipes made specifically to prevent gas siphoning.
Why don't you have roadside assistance packages in your roadside emergency kits?
Most vehicles sold in North America come with generous manufacturers’ roadside assistance packages.
Why do you put honey in your roadside emergency kits?
Q. What is the only food that doesn't spoil?
A. Honey
Also honey can be stored for years, even centuries and still be edible. It is a high energy food source with no apparent allergy symptoms. |
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Where should warning triangles be placed?
Definitely away from the disabled vehicle! Think of the stopping distance required by a vehicle as it approaches. It may take some time after seeing a warning triangle to stop. If it is on the vehicle, it is too late! Give oncoming vehicles a chance of stopping! Traffic Boards may differ a bit as to the actual legal distance, largely based on previous records, as in slippery icy parts of the country the legal distance may be greater. A fairly marginal distance would be over 30 yards or meters ahead and behind the disabled vehicle, and even more if ice or rain is part of the weather conditions. The same rules would apply to flares.
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